Exploring the Charm of the Masseria

Staying on a farm in Italy stretched my comfort zone a bit, especially as I was typically reliant on public transport and avoided driving. Still, I’m grateful I decided to rent a car, as spending three nights in a serene organic farm amid the Italian countryside was the perfect remedy after a long, sweltering summer.

This article acts as both a travel guide and a trip report. I’ll share insights about the masseria I selected, the experience of staying on a farm, the local attractions, and how I navigated car rental in Salento, along with recommendations for other masserias you might consider during your Puglia adventure.

What is a Masseria?

Essentially, a masseria is a working farm that welcomes visitors, often featuring an on-site restaurant or guesthouse. In different regions of Italy, the term agriturismo is more commonly used, but in Puglia, masseria is the preferred term.

Historically, many masseries were fortified with defensive walls to protect both the landowners and their workers. However, since the world today enjoys relative peace, modern masserias often do not necessitate such security. Some historic masserias still maintain these walls and guard towers, but most now embrace the surrounding countryside.

Masseria Messer Gesualdo

Disclosure: I paid in full for my stay at this masseria and did not disclose my status as a blogger.

The masseria I chose was Masseria Messer Gesualdo, a family-owned farm and guesthouse located in Salento, approximately 40 kilometers south of Lecce and 10 kilometers northwest of Castro Marina.

I was attracted to Masseria Messer Gesualdo mainly due to its prime location—conveniently close to Otranto, a spot where I would later pick up my rental car. I also appreciated that they were listed on Booking, since reaching out via email to other masserias often went unanswered. Additionally, I preferred the idea of a quaint, family-run farm over a larger tourist-oriented venue.

My Room at the Masseria

My accommodations at Masseria Messer Gesualdo were modern, spacious, and particularly pleasant during the summer heat. Entering through the front door, I passed a generous closet and a roomy bathroom (apologies for not capturing a photo, but trust me, it was equally spacious with contemporary fixtures) before entering my bedroom, which featured a queen-sized bed, a sofa, desktop, and mini-fridge.

The back of my room opened to a private terrace shaded by trees, overlooking the family’s fields. Many afternoons, I returned from exploring or swimming in the sea, enjoyed a refreshing shower, and snacked on fresh fruit and water outside until dinnertime.

The Masseria Grounds

Many of the other guests at Masseria Messer Gesualdo were families, and it was evident that the children enjoyed spending time by the pool. There were lounge chairs to seek either shade or sun, playful floating toys for kids, and even a hammock strung between trees.

In the evening, I wandered around the masseria grounds, joined by the family’s two friendly dogs. They led me to the goat enclosure, where we passed the fields cultivating organic olives, tomatoes, onions, melons, and legumes.

Food & Drink at the Masseria

Although I was too busy photographing the masseria’s lovely cat to grab a decent picture of my breakfast, each morning I enjoyed a delightful meal at a table shaded by the pool. Breakfast included freshly baked bread and pastries, fruits procured from the farm, coffee, juice, and eggs from the family’s hens, cooked to order.

They also offer dinner on some evenings, but with only a three-night stay, I missed the opportunity to experience their dinner menu.

What’s Nearby?

I loved that Masseria Messer Gesualdo was ideally situated near other charming towns and villages in Puglia. It was my first time driving in Italy, and the thought of navigating dark country roads at night made me nervous. Luckily, numerous dining options were just a ten-minute drive away.

I dined in three nearby towns: Spongano, Poggiardo, and San Cassiano. From these options, my favorite was Trattoria Picalo, a vibrant spot frequented by locals—if you visit on a lovely summer night, be sure to reserve a table!

On my way to and from the beach, I passed through Poggiardo and made a quick grocery stop at the Familia supermarket in the Gulliver shopping center.

Getting To and From Your Masseria

While it’s possible to explore Puglia without a car, staying at a masseria definitely requires one. I rented a compact automatic vehicle from Mastroleo Noleggio in Otranto for my three-day visit. The rental process was quite casual, and we communicated via WhatsApp. In general, I found driving quite easy, but parking can be challenging in smaller coastal towns like Castro Marina during peak hours.

Other Masserias in Puglia

While I had a wonderful experience at Masseria Messer Gesualdo, I would extend my rental period if I were to visit Puglia again, using it as a base for exploring the southern reaches of Salento.

For those who might not find availability, or if you’re looking for a larger or more luxurious option, consider these other highly-rated farm stays in Puglia:

• Agriturismo Panacea – Known for their early morning harvest of organic fruits and vegetables that make it to your breakfast plate, this family-run masseria is less than ten minutes from the beautiful beaches of Santa Cesarea Terme.
• Masseria Un Posto al Sole – Located just three minutes from the sea, this masseria offers stunning views over Otranto and caters to gluten-free, vegan, and vegetarian diets.
• Antica Masseria Pescu – Famous for its breathtaking infinity pool, located in Presicce, one of Italy’s most beautiful villages.
• Masseria Dan Domenico – A five-star establishment in a former masseria once utilized by the Knights of Malta, complete with six dining options and a private beach.
• Masseria Pozzo Tre Pile – Just outside Martina Franca, guests can sleep in an authentic Puglian trullo, a traditional stone house with a distinctive conical roof.
• Masseria Greico – Ideal for relaxation, offering cooking classes, forest walks, yoga, and delightful poolside aperitivos.