Why Visit Tbilisi?

As I mentioned in my last post, Georgia is one of the hottest travel destinations of 2018. The capital city, Tbilisi, beautifully maintains its historical city center—sometimes through stunning renovations and sometimes by embracing its charmingly dilapidated past. Within a five-block radius, you can find futuristic contemporary architecture standing alongside thousand-year-old churches, all existing harmoniously within the same neighborhood.

Moreover, Tbilisi is fantastic for solo female travelers. Walking around the city—day or night—is completely safe, and locals are always eager to assist foreign travelers by providing directions, answering questions, and recommending their favorite attractions and eateries. Tbilisi is also quite affordable, making it a perfect place to treat yourself to a private hotel room after sharing dorms in pricier destinations.

I recently spent about ten days exploring Tbilisi as a solo female traveler and created this Tbilisi City Guide to share my favorite spots in this enchanting city.

Things to Do in Tbilisi

Sulfur Baths

When it comes to the dome-roofed sulfur baths, I may not be the best person to ask after my experience at the public sulfur showers. Instead of luxuriating in an intricately tiled Ottoman bathtub filled with mineral waters, I found myself standing unclothed among fifteen other women under rustic faucets, as unpleasant water cascaded down from above.

Unlike other spas I’ve visited, such as the Roman-Irish baths in Baden-Baden or the hammams of Istanbul, Tbilisi’s sulfur baths are generally intended for groups who want to rent a private bath for a more social experience. My hostel didn’t think I wanted to splurge on a private bath (even though they can cost as little as ten or fifteen dollars), so I was directed to the showers… which came as a surprise. However, locals do go there for their daily hygiene routine, including soaping, shampooing, and shaving, so while you can get a quick massage from one of the attendants, it’s not quite a traditional spa experience.

Peace Bridge & Riverfront Architecture

The Kura River flows through Tbilisi’s Old Town, and local authorities have worked hard to transform the riverfront into one of the city’s top destinations. The most iconic attraction along the river is the Bridge of Peace—a futuristic structure designed by an Italian architect that opened in 2010. Located at the east side of the bridge, Rike Park is a picturesque area filled with flowers, trees, and contemporary art installations. From here, you can take an aerial tramway up to Narikala Fortress for stunning panoramic views of the city.

Additionally, you’ll find intriguing architecture nearby, including a tubular music hall and the Public Service Hall with its petal-like roof. If you visit the Public Service Hall, make sure to stroll a couple more blocks to explore the Dry Bridge Bazaar—a vibrant flea market bustling with antiques, handicrafts, and unique finds. The bazaar comes alive on weekends, so it’s best to visit around noon on Saturday or Sunday.

Georgian National Museum

I must confess that my visit to the Georgian National Museum was prompted by a desire to escape Tbilisi’s sweltering summer heat, which was nearing forty degrees Celsius. However, I found my time there enjoyable and wholeheartedly recommend it to fellow visitors. Most exhibits focus on the region’s history, and you can easily spend hours wandering through various rooms filled with artifacts from across Georgia. Don’t miss the fourth floor, which houses the Soviet Occupation Exhibit Hall—an atmospheric exploration of life in occupied Georgia from 1921 to 1991. Admission is just 7 GEL (approximately $3 USD), and the museum is closed on Mondays.

The Markets of Tbilisi

Tbilisi is home to several markets worth visiting. One of my first stops was The Deserter’s Bazaar, a sprawling market located just a few blocks from the central train station. Open daily from about 7:00 am to 5:00 pm (though it may close earlier if vendors have sold out), this market got its name during the 1920s when military deserters sold surplus arms. Today, it buzzes with vendors offering everything from watermelons and eggplants to affordable clothing imported from China. For an authentic taste of Georgia, be sure to buy some homemade wine from one of the stalls and enjoy it at the rooftop patio of Envoy Hostel.

Additionally, Tbilisi hosts a popular flea market every weekend called the Dry Bridge Bazaar. While it used to be full of genuine antiques, it mostly sells second-hand items, handicrafts, and the occasional bottle of cha-cha (a strong Georgian spirit) these days. Just be cautious when exploring!

Cosmic Communist Constructions

One of my favorite books is CCCP: Cosmic Communist Constructions Photographed, featuring many of the unforgettable buildings found in Tbilisi. It’s fascinating to see these weird yet captivating structures as you explore the city.

The former Ministry of Transportation building, now the headquarters of Bank of Georgia, features an intriguing design of rectangles stacked upon rectangles and has recently been recognized as a national monument. The crumbling facade of the former Museum of Archaeology can still be seen from the street, and the old Wedding Palace, once frequented by Margaret Thatcher, has returned to event hall duty after years as a private residence. If you’re intrigued, contact Brutal Tours to book a tour focused on Brutalist and Soviet architecture with a custom itinerary tailored to your interests.

Freedom Square

Freedom Square, marked by the striking gold monument of George slaying the dragon, serves as a noticeable transition between the modern Rustaveli Avenue and the historic Old Town. Surrounded by some of the city’s grandest buildings, many of which now house luxury boutiques and international corporations, it also functions as a transportation hub with numerous buses looping around. The plaza boasts the closest underground metro station to the attractions of the Old Town, making it a convenient meeting point for friends or your Airbnb host.

Day Trips Near Tbilisi

It may seem surprising, but some of the best experiences outside Tbilisi can be reached easily from the city. I’ve covered the best day trips from Tbilisi in a separate blog post, but here’s a quick overview:

Mtskheta is mere minutes away and is home to two of Georgia’s most spectacular churches. Further afield, you’ll find Gori, where Joseph Stalin grew up, and Uplistsikhe, an ancient city carved into rock caves. Heading north from Tbilisi, you can visit the Ananuri Fortress Complex before venturing onward to Kazbegi, a mountainous region renowned for its breathtaking hiking opportunities. Most of these excursions can be undertaken independently by public transport, although Kazbegi may require a car or organized tour.

Where to Eat in Tbilisi

Georgian cuisine is best enjoyed with company. Gather with fellow travelers and share a family-style feast of Georgian favorites. If you’re dining solo, consider pairing two dishes, such as a salad with dumplings or grilled vegetables with khachapuri (cheese bread)—just see if you can finish them both!

Café Leila

With a focus on fresh, seasonal produce, Café Leila offers delicious Georgian meals with a lighter twist. While seafood dishes are available, it’s the soups, salads, and vegetable options that draw the crowds. The house wine is incredibly affordable, but stick to the red variety for the best experience!

Sakhli #11

I met some wonderful people at my hostel who raved about their meal at Sakhli #11, and they even returned to share the experience with me. Though it’s on the higher end among traditional Georgian eateries, this restaurant impresses with its quality and slight creative twists on classic dishes, accompanied by a selection of organic wines.

Pasanauri

Whereas the service at Pasanauri may leave a bit to be desired, it’s a great spot for affordable khinkhali (dumplings filled with meat, cheese, or vegetables) and khachapuri. Being open 24 hours makes it easy to satisfy your cravings anytime!

Poliphonia

I didn’t get the chance to dine at Poliphonia, but I spotted Yotam Ottolenghi, the author of the fantastic Plenty cookbook, gushing about his meals on Instagram. The restaurant boasts a frequently changing, curated menu, emphasizing seasonal ingredients and traditional cooking methods.

Art Café Home

Tbilisi is known for its lively nightlife, with hotspots like Bassiani (one of the world’s trendiest nightclubs) and Jan Shardeni Street filled with vibrant bars and clubs. For a perfect start to a big night out, head to Art Café Home, a spacious lounge with a gorgeous rooftop terrace and creatively crafted cocktails that won’t break the bank.

Where to Stay in Tbilisi

I spent over seven nights at Envoy Hostel, a stunning hillside hostel just a few steep steps from Meidan Square and a short walk from the Sulfur Baths and Narikala Fortress.

Envoy’s standout feature is its rooftop terrace offering panoramic views of the historic city center—an ideal spot for meeting other travelers, sharing drinks, and planning adventures! The hostel also offers fantastic excursions around Georgia, including day trips to the best sights outside Tbilisi and multi-day tours across the country. Highly recommended!

If Envoy Hostel is fully booked, consider Fabrika Tbilisi, a massive new hostel within a repurposed clothing factory. The lower level acts as a community hub, featuring restaurants, bars, boutiques, and open spaces for the public. Upstairs, there are dormitory and private rooms as well as apartments available. Fabrika is located on the opposite side of the river from the historic center, just a short distance from the Marjanishvili metro station.

If hostels aren’t your style, opt for a small boutique hotel in the Old Town. These options put you at the heart of Tbilisi’s ancient architecture, close to shops and restaurants. One great choice for mid-range travelers is No 12 Boutique Hotel, which features modern comforts in beautifully restored historic buildings and offers breakfast cooked to order. Avoid the larger chain hotels along Rustaveli Avenue—unless you’re in Tbilisi for work, you’ll want to be closer to the sights.

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